Finding the Perfect Wave in Liberia

“How da human body?” a smiling widely Liberian female asked me after our planes finished up in Monrovia.

“Body great,” I responded in my rusty Liberian English, nonetheless impressed by the easiness with which I appeared: a significant air carrier got transported me right from Atlanta. Two ages before, while protecting the country’s 14 seasons civil warfare, I would soar into this Atlantic washed capital from Abidjan, in the Ivory Shoreline, operating a Soviet era artifact, 1 / 2 of its vacation cabin crammed with burlap covered supplies for the strongman Charles Taylor. But today, with the aged dictator in jail and Liberia at serenity, the country can become instantly available for tourism for robust souls, at least.

Longer noted as America in Africa, Liberia was quasi colonized by the United Areas in the 1820s. These times, guests bike to the antebellum style residences in the community of Clay Ashland. Others search for pygmy hippos in lush rain forest sanctuaries. But I went for the bodysurfing (a sport that, as the company advises, consists of operating a trend without a panel.


The just products you may want can be a couple of small fins). Surfing or “sliding,” as Liberians call it may end up being even more founded in African countries like Senegal, Morocco, and South Africa. But I experienced noticed that Liberians are treated to good dunes practically every operating day time of the season. I realized locating the best types would get convenient.

Though much of Monrovia remains in post war shambles with potholed roads and spotty electricity fresh hotels and beachfront places are cropping up. A small flyer published where I remained caught my vision merely for advertising yoga classes. I avoid remember many yoga companies functioning under the Taylor plan.

I gripped my fins and struck Barnes Beach front, a very good choice to the adjacent, and considerably more touristy, Thinkers Commune Beach front. Two large thunderclouds on the horizon blemished the stones while wonderful whitecaps thrown to banks.

Once in the normal water, nonetheless, I came to the realization these mounds had been way also big and erratic for me to confront this early on in the trip. I hiked up the beach front and into a surf side eatery, pondering I’d consider my alternatives over a denture of side butter a wickedly spicy sweet stew, served over pounded cassava. I asked the waiter about the beef in the dish.

“That’s the bush beef” he suggested me.


I frowned. While I’m all for free range animals, I love good thing fewer free ranging than what I believed we acquired in this article. “What sort of bush beef?,” I asked.

He shrugged. “Forest beef.”

Slipping into the repartee of my early on Monrovia days and nights, I feigned displeasure. “That bush beef go up timber?,” I asked, pantomiming the action. “It journey? That beef look holes?”

“It’s bush beef,” he explained with a have fun.

I bought the poultry instead.

The following day time, an aged friend from “Taylor time” selected me up in his dented Toyota. Harris Johnson, a personal computer technician in a Yankees cap, grinned as he gunned his car downtown, Monrovia’s open fire scarred skyline looking like something out of Mad Max. We exceeded over the bridge to Bushrod Island, a hardscrabble industrial section of city, and I noticed the ruins of a pre war film theater and kept in mind the beautiful little groundnut soup shop that experienced been hidden behind it. Harris drew over. Throughout the battle, the place experienced usually been half vacant, but we discovered it humming with a lunch masses. We were demonstrated to the only seats remaining and noticed from the kitchen the rhythmic noises of cooks beating the cassava yam dough known as “dumbo.” A set of goats bleated from a space to our remaining as we savored each spoonful of flavored peanut soup.

Five kilometers down the road, Harris and I showed up at Cici’s Seaside, where we shed our flip flops and crossed an expanse of fine powdery sand to the shoreline. From there we could observe an issue: a collection of large offshore boulders disregarding the mounds. There would come to be no browsing on below, we came to the realization.

“Boss Guy,” Harris explained, and I wondered if he was remaining polite, ironic, or both “you will require heading out to Robertsport.”

Of training. I recognized that Robertsport, three times up the seacoast, would own the mounds I required. A profound underwater trench off the seacoast there designed no lesser than five famed periods of time things. But keep the best known safety of Monrovia for the unstable bush? My frontal lobe recognized that Little Kids simply no longer roam the backcountry with AK 47s, but the reptilian part of my mind was squirting extreme care hormones. Robertsport is definitely close to Sierra Leone, with its erstwhile amputation happy Cutting edge United Leading. An absence of, thanks a lot. I’ll finally get that excellent influx … in Monrovia.

Driving thoughts of Robertsport apart, I liked a surf less time with Harris at Cici’s. Three hours proceeded to go by. Or potentially it was six? We ended up into Liberian time, flying and backstroking in the turquoise marine. As the sunlight was established, we got barbecued cassava fish, newly netted by a close by Fanti fisherman.

I approved the following times impatiently. I sought to bodysurf, but determined at the elegant, radiant shore off 16th Block simply enormous crashing swells of the variety I possessed saw at Barnes tubeless, choppy, and with no person cycling them. A group of 20 young adults was participating in sports barefoot in the mud, and after an even while a group of kids in their underwear I’d found them participating in in the normal shallow water neared me. The major kid launched a “How da human body?”

I informed them the human body was prepared to glide, under no circumstances brain the conditions. I was standing up and going for the miserable browse. The soccer game ceased, the players looking in my way. Different people on the seashore cried out, caution me that the underwater mood needles would move me under. But I paid them no attention. The huge initial trend criticized me into a sandbar. I limped back again to the seashore and lay down on my back again in the fine sand. Some concerned Liberian faces seemed down at me, mounting an oval of piercing unknown skies. In that unknown, I could discover the amazing surf of Robertsport. I noticed I required to mess up some courage and obtain out of town.

The next morning, I hired a bush taxi to take me up the coast. Beyond the city, a panorama of rubber plantations, cassava fields, and forests opened up not a gun toting Small Boy anywhere, of course. Before long, the pristine Lake Piso Nature Reserve spread out before me, the oblong lake twinkling beneath emerald hills, the ocean beyond it. At last: Robertsport.

The Atlantic was heaving itself from the south in a perfect peel, and surfers were functioning an astounding pipeline for 200 yards and additional. I implemented them into the increases human body great, the sunlight blasting orange red like a massive dish of hands butter and trapped Liberia’s finest ocean.

William Powers


Christine W. Leonard

Hi, I'm Leonard. I'm a blogger. I love to write about life, love ... I hope you like my blog.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *